ORI – Upon Reflection: Tolu Coker’s Ode to Spirituality and Heritage

 

 

 

The presentation was an immersive experience, set in a studio where models carried stalks of cotton, symbolizing the deep ties to history and labor. The haunting live rendition of Billie Holiday’s Strange Fruit, performed by a band led by Grammy-winning producer Gaetan Gudd, added an emotional depth to the showcase. This multi-sensory approach underscored Coker’s dedication to creating space for Black narratives and the diasporic experience within the fashion world.

 

 

 

The collection drew inspiration from a rich tapestry of spiritual and cultural traditions. It paid homage to the flowing white garments of Aladura churches, ceremonial attire from Candomblé, Lucumí, and Santería, and the ritual dress of Black spiritual practices in Louisiana and Haiti. Coker masterfully blended these influences with classic European tailoring techniques, featuring cinched, pleated, and layered designs that celebrated both tradition and innovation.

 

 

Sustainability was a key theme, with the collection utilizing deadstock wools, gabardines, tartans, and poplins. This commitment to ethical fashion grounded the collection in both cultural memory and contemporary responsibility.

 

 

Coker also collaborated with other Black talents, including Manolo Blahnik for footwear and Virna Pasquinelli for sculpted hats, adding another layer of historical reverence and modern craftsmanship to the showcase.

 

 

ORI – Upon Reflection was more than a fashion show—it was a poignant statement on the intersection of culture, faith, and selfhood. By blending the sacred with the structured, Tolu Coker redefined fashion’s role as both a mirror to the past and a blueprint for the future.