In Gabriela Hearst’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection, nothing is quite as it seems. Crochet lace transforms into the softest cashmere, chunky furs are meticulously hand-knitted, and slip dresses take shape in corseted leather.
The designer found inspiration in the visionary surrealist artist Leonora Carrington, whose dreamlike paintings of hybrid birds, horses, and humans from fantastical realms captivated Hearst. "I stumbled upon Leonora in a very serendipitous way," Hearst reveals backstage before her show at the Brooklyn Navy Yard. "She embodies the qualities of the women who inspire me." After receiving Carrington’s tarot book, Hearst dove into the artist’s life and was drawn to her dedication to her own vision. "She was an incredible artist, and she used her voice purposefully, especially around environmental issues and the women’s movement," Hearst notes. Carrington was a key figure in the 1970s women’s liberation movement in Mexico.
This connection to Carrington’s fiercely independent spirit mirrors Hearst’s own commitment to sustainability in fashion. Since launching her eponymous brand in 2015, Hearst has remained steadfast in her mission, which she also upheld when she became creative director at Chloé in 2020. Under her leadership, Chloé became the first luxury fashion house to earn B Corp certification. For her latest collection, Hearst continued this focus, showcasing jewelry made from recycled gold, platinum, and silver, alongside cashmere hand-knitted by artisans in Bolivia.
This collection marks Hearst's first for her own brand since stepping down from Chloé, and it’s clear she’s ready to push her creative boundaries. "You’ll see a lot of pieces that look like one thing, but they’re actually something else," Hearst explains. What appears to be denim is actually recycled cotton and linen, while corduroy, cashmere, fisherman knits, and wool come together in quilted patterns. The show featured gold leather corset and bustier dresses, with lush cashmere coats and dresses dominating the runway. Classic favorites, such as corduroy suits, wool capes, and delicate slip dresses, also made a prominent return.
This isn’t the bold, colorful surrealism of Carrington’s work, but a subtler interpretation—taking familiar textures and transforming them into something new. "It’s about playing with the concept of something," Hearst says. "Taking inspiration from the paintings and using red in an appropriate way." The runway was bathed in deep scarlet, and one of the most striking looks featured a large red coat made of yarn that resembled soft shearling. Reflecting the collection's theme of misdirection, guests were greeted by whimsical foods: colorful jellies, pear tartlets, and candied fruits—along with ice cream disguised as cream cheese balls covered in strawberries, all in the midst of a New York City snowstorm.
In today’s turbulent world, many designers are creating collections that offer a sense of protection. Hearst’s surrealist-inspired collection follows this trend. "Surrealism emerged after the horrors of World War I," she reflects. "We still live with conflict today, and surrealism helps us process and digest those ongoing traumas." Nearly a century later, the surrealists would likely find Hearst’s work meaningful, proving that the union of quiet luxury and surrealism has never been more captivating.
(1).jpg)
